"I was expecting the area around it to be one of black devastation. Instead, I found a landscape of rugged beauty. The road to it sweeps along the coast, the sea a shimmering line at the edge of a flat coastal plain. Cliffs echo with the cries of fulmars that nest on the ledges and wheel and dive acrobatically overhead. Ponies and sheep graze on the lush spring grass. Eyjafjallajökull appears, peeping out from the end of a narrow valley, the ash now buried beneath a fresh cap of snow."